Italian Friendship – Vacation at IL Borghetto

Il Borghetto

Three months have passed since we were in Italy, but the wonderful experience we had at Villa Il Borghetto is still in my mind. It makes me smile whenever I thought about the beautiful settings and the amicable people there who own and manage the property. 

Simona, Chris, Richardo, Steve

On our arrival at the first night, we met an American couple from Indiana, Larry and Carol, who were on their 9^th visit to the villa ! They have now made it their annual trip to come back here. How much chance would you want to visit the same place year after after? The question was answered after we had our one week stay here. I came to understand where the temptation comes from.

Prior to this trip, I have been in Italy at least half dozen times, but all of my previous trips were arranged by travel agents. This is the first time that we were aiming for a self-tour, an adventure.  Regardless how well we have planned, we missed calculating the time needed between arrival at the airport and the villa out in the countryside.  Garmin rocks in many countries, but it often appears confused in the remote country locations. We arrived very late and missed the check-in deadline; however, we still received a warm welcome from Ricardo and Simona. Richardo helped us with our luggage and Simona handed us the key instantly that we were able to settle in the apartment without any hassles.

Nicola

After 22 hours, we could simply drop our bags in the room and walk into a nice and cozy dining room for our first glass of authentic Chianti wine. A gourmet 4-course dinner was served with true Italian hospitality.

Sandra

Nicola brought us a 4-page wine list and give us an introduction of different types of Italian wines. Whenever a dish is served, Cesar would explain to us the ingredients and spices used. Steve loves to try varieties of wines. When he found out that Sandra is the wine connoisseur, he has been getting her advice for our dinner wine choices. We consumed one bottle a night for five nights, but we were told it was nothing in comparison with the intake by other people.

We were in a foreign country and in a rental, but we felt like at home and chatted with family and friends. We were not dining at a regular restaurant, instead, we enjoyed a home-made and authentic Italian cooking right at the villa. We either dined inside the restaurant with tasteful decorations or outside in a large gazebo area with candle lights and a sky full of stars.

Amazing enough, the main chef in the kitchen is the mother of Richardo and Sandra. I love almost everything come out of her kitchen. In fact, I have since learned to use plum sauce on sliced pork, various sauces on different pasta and easy dessert with lots of flavors.

At the villa, the pace is easy, peaceful and relaxed. Every morning we were welcome with a pre-dawn fog hovering over the vineyard. Layers of hues change as sun rises. It is surreal and heavenly.

The moment when the sun hits the horizon, I couldn't usually wait to rush to this spot to observe the majestic nature scene. You can pick up a morning read and sit on the balcony or you can open all your windows to suck in the freshest air.  For me, I ran down to the lower level in the wide open space to set up my tripod awaiting for sunrise.

The view is fantastic from all angles. Often times I lost my choice of focal point because there are so many beautiful subjects right in front of you and for you only. The villa was fully occupied and yet it was so quiet that you think you have the whole place for yourself. I cannot count how many times I have run down these stairs and wandered into the vineyard to get my shoes wet and to smell the sweet aroma of fresh grapes.

As daylight gradually took over the whole place, the main entry of the villa comes to sight. I would climb up to the upper level where the swimming pool is and overlook the place. Beyond the building, there is the typical Tuscany scene, rolling hills and vineyards. And, I love when they are overshadowed by morning fog.

I tried not to shoot anything when the sun was up high. So here came my quiet time. I had a cup of Italian coffee to sip and my laptop to work on the photos. And, I could easily locate a spot to lounge myself in without any interruptions.

Either it is a recliner along the poolside looking out the vineyard and mountains in distance or simply a table and few chairs on a casual corner. You are guaranteed to enjoy to your contentment.

This is a lovely vacation spot with home comfort and ease. You are far away from city and not too far away from reality. You are surrounded by beautiful nature, but not far away from civilization.

You run into friends from other parts of the world and enjoy little chit-chat to broaden your world view in an informal pace. Friends who choose to come to the same place have obviously liked something in common and the conversational harmony is a pleasure.  And, I cannot tell you how nice Richardo, Simona, Nicola and Sandra are.  Whenever you need them, they are there and they make you feel like you are part of their family...

Now you know why I miss this place so much. We surely hope to come back soon.

P.S. Something is going on with the layout. I simply could not get everything aligned... more skills               that I need to have.       

Il Borghetto
info@ilborghettotuscanholidays.com
  

View in the Frame - open and yet enclosed

Through the eyes of being a photographer, I begin to love windows.  Window is like the live view screen on the camera, it helps to filter through the wide open space and frame the ideal image to please our eyes.  When an image has a focal point, it is given a meaning and therefore appealing. 

Tuscany, Framed

The rolling hills at Tuscany is like lines and lines of poems that rhymes and goes on and on to no end. I did not use a telephoto lens and I felt that I could not focus on one segment without carrying it on to the others. As we cruised along the road, I fast-produced lots of panorama clips which seem to satisfy my anxiety to take in everything, but at end of the day, I found the images framed are more attractive and drive me to be more attentive.

I did bring my tripod, but it does not always practical coming to the popular tourist spot where I either had to dodge hundreds of heads or there was no extra room for a tripod. September is usually not a prime tourist season, but it still is here. I found myself constantly in the way of another photographer and had to snap my shots whenever there was an opening.

Grape Vines, Under and Up-Closer

Lodging at the place next to the acres of vineyard is an unforgettable experience. The smell of the rows and rows of ripen grapes flows into the air a sweet and vinegary aroma. It is enjoyable to walk down the vineyards; It is soothing to rest under the structured grape arbor; It is captivating and satisfying looking through a window with grape vines and ripen grapes hanging down... Wonder why I did not see such grape arbors in Willamette Valley. Maybe our grape vines are too young to be manipulated as a sustained structure?

Either we look through the windows from inside or look in from outside, the frame (window or door) can easily transform the dullness to magic. I like French doors. The images shown through the checkered panels are like a live version of puzzles.  This simple lunch place serves freshly-caught fish, home-made pasta (of course), killer appetizers and potato croquettes that melted in your mouth after you break the crunch on the surface. If not for the wood frames, the white light bulbs and planters, the ocean scene will disappear and no ambiance to speak of. I just cannot get enough of these open frames.

Difference is in the Framing

Not until recent trip in Italy, I did not think much of open doors and windows without glasses.  The distinctive history of Italy has established its exceptional styles of architecture. Instead of wood frames, there are stone and rock version that often remind me of the stronghold and fortress in historical Roman Empire.  They were built upon a long and hard history, meant to be unbeatable and forever lasting. I wowed when I walked into this space and was wholeheartedly in love of what I saw. The view won't be so stunning without the dramatic stone columns which bring in the contrast and frame for us a natural painting.

 

How do you like to live in the house where a large panel of open window unwraps for you the whole world of sea below and the blue sky above, right in front of you? Don't you feel like you can walk on water and easily reach out to the sky? This house makes me dream. That's what I am talking about...

Now I understand why Terra cotta color is so popular here. I cannot think of a better color to harmonize the sky and the earth, and to amplify the entire color scheme to its extreme, so perfectly.

It is the combination of vintage flare, the color drama and the ultimately irresistible nature. It is the Italian charm that draw people over here, time after time. This also explains why the Italian designers are so inspiring and outstanding. 

Oh, Tuscany

It was my years of dream to come back to Italy and tour the countryside.  Here I am, on vacation only, not on business.

Living in Williamette Valley, the wine country, I have done numerous wine tasting, but have not come close to inspect the clusters of grapes growing in the vineyard. Here in Tuscany, when the golden glow shines through our apartment window in the morning, it also glows on the vineyard. 

Good morning, Tuscany

Tuscany is the world famous wine haven particularly in Chianti region. Thousands and ten thousands acres of vineyards on the rolling hills are the 'trade mark' and the main element to create its breath-taking landscape.  

These vineyards, I believe, are mostly planted by original farmers according to pre-existing geography. Unlike in the States where everything is so regulated and checker-boarded, here shows history impact and true nature.

Dusk in Tuscany

I think the unintentional placement of the vineyards here has accidentally created dramatic and stunning scenery.  This land of vineyards is vast and magnificent. The spread is often beyond our vision of 180 degree view and beyond.  The mature growth of the vines shows sign of long history, experience and expertise.

Layers of mountains afar and behind embrace the continuous patches and patterns of the vineyards. Putting yourself in the scene, you would wonder if this is real or in the dream.

I brought my travel tripod. Unfortunately, the roads are extremely winding and narrow. And, there are no shoulders. Italian drivers do not use blinkers. If you use signals, you are telling locals that you are foreign and chances are, you will be pressed to drive faster and get out of the way.

San Gimingnano

On many occasions, when the photo opps were up, we either could not find a place to pull over or the cars kept coming no stop from both directions. If we were just a bit slower sometimes because we were reconfirming our driving directions, we would hear that screaming honks. Driving is stressful here, but for the sake of the scenery, a little bit of upset can easily be out behind.

Italian road system is governed by Roundabouts which are designed to do the same work as our Stop signs here except that we have to watch the traffic coming from all directions. It is a Yield, not a Stop. Most the drivers are pretty aggressive. It is quite tough for the visitors who are not familiar with the roads to ‘compete’. I said ‘compete’. Because if you don’t move, others will. This reminds me of my previous experience driving in Taiwan. The roads are narrow and the drivers are in multitude. If you follow the rules, you may get nowhere.

how enchanting

There are two primary types of grapes growing in Tuscany, one is Sangiovese used to make Red wine and the other is Vernache used to make white wine.

We visited Castello Verranzzano winery in Chianti and concluded that we like Chianti Classico the best. The wine list from the restaurants is usually 3-4 pages long, but we are not wine connoisseurs. All we do is to try a different one each time and they are generally pretty good. Just like olive oil and Balsamic vinaigrette, a glass of wine on dinner table is part of Italian  tradition  and   undoubtedly,  it  adds  ambiance  and

under grape vines

flavor the dish with the remaining taste on the tongue, in my opinion.

It was inside the winery and in the restaurants that I first saw grape plants are used as the roof decor for the open dining area. Aged grape vines provide nice shade and the sweet aroma from the grapes is enchanting. I wonder why Willamette wineries are not doing the same. Maybe the grapes are not aged and large enough to crawl on the roof. I looked up and saw these beautiful grapes hanging from the ceiling and bathing in the sun.

Giovani Verranzzano was an renown explorer after Christopher Columbus. An existing bridge in New York city was named after him. His castle is now a charming winery and also the living space for the winery workers. How do you like to live and work in a place like this?

Verranzzano Castle fence

The grapes are sweet. The winery is nicely architected. Vineyards are the landscape, amazing. But what excited me the most is to watch grape harvesting. I know from this point on, I will appreciate every single piece of the grapes that we have and enjoy it.

We were told that these workers are paid by pounds so they tend to work fast.  I had to run after them to take their pictures because they can finish picking an approximately 500 feet row in about ten minutes. Wages are mean, but the smiles do not leave their face.

A Smile to Remember