Tallinn, the Medieval Jewel - travel journal (3)

The first time I knew about Estonia is in high school. Estonia is one of the three Baltic Sea small countries.  That is all I learned from our textbook, nothing more. Who knows decades after, I was walking down the streets of Estonia. 

I travelled with two history gurus, my sister and my husband. They both know world history inside out and can literally tell you what year War I started or the year when Russian emperor Tsar was assassinated.  I only remember vaguely some of the events, I could not even part with their conversation. It is definitely more interesting if you can relate what you see to the history and story behind. For this reason I have to say that I am growing my interest to revisit some history particularly for Scandinavia countries and Russia.

Estonians are related to the Finns and have a similar history background. They were first occupied by Sweden and later Russia till after World War I when they finally became independent.  But Russia influence continued during World War II and consequently communists ruled Estonia for a period of time. There are still about 25% Russians now live in Estonia, not to be surprised at Russian resemblance in town. 

The smallest states in Baltic Sea, Estonia is thought to be the most westernized. Capital City Tallinn is located on Gulf of Finland, It is considered to be the prettiest city in Baltic Sea. It is also the largest industrial and cultural center. Tallinn old town is a medieval enclave with old walls, towers and cobblestone streets. It reminds me of Quebec City, Canada where the town is enclosed by stone walls, the fortress. The area is within walking distance and it is easy to tour the entire place by foot.

In a medieval town, I was first attracted by the European style outdoor cafes. There are also lots of restaurants with medieval decorations and the waiting clerks are dressed like the people from Middle Ages.  They were holding the plates, pouring coffee and busing tables from one end to the other. I felt like walking into a King Arthur movie set scene. It is entertaining by just looking at their costumes.

It costs money to use public restrooms. When I asked a newsstand girl, she directed us to a place upstairs at a very strange location. With four of us together, we thought it no harm to check it out. There are two restrooms inside, one marked for men and one for women except that there is only one entry, and one waiting line. I saw a man walk out of the room marked for women, it was very confusing.  

On the way out, I saw a restaurant door half opened, and a picture inside had completely drawn my attention. At that moment I could care less if I was blocking the line, I wanted that shot so bad as you may understand why.  I in fact took another shot with the complete picture without the door, but I prefer the striking image half hidden by the glass door. Don't ask me why.

I was so obsessed with various styles of architecture, either if it is Sweden or Russia influenced, or it is the identity that Estonians tried to establish, there are just so many interesting details that I have hard time to take them all in.  

It was hard to snap shoot details of churches or even general architecture details as we moved down the street and I was very overwhelmed by what I saw. So I aimed my camera at anything I found interesting and just snapped it. 

The images posted here are random choices. As images surface, I then begin to ponder why they were taken, and what was my state of mind when I pointed my camera at them.  

As I start to go over all the pictures, I will include some subject-oriented blogs (relating to my recent trip) in addition to my travel journals.

bold green window trim

Tallinn rooflines

what some chocolate?

waiter and waitress 

cafe with medieval decors 

inviting entrance

'do you know what's sold inside?'

modern building behind medieval towers (outside the wall)

Copenhagen, Denmark - travel journal (2)

While I have never been a tour fan, it is the only way to have a quick glance at six countries in 17 days.  Except Norway, we spent only one day at each capital city. It is not fair for me to make any personal comments on a place when I had only a little taste of it. I can only talk about my first impression and the things I have witnessed or some facts mentioned by the tour guides.

Knew so little about Scandinavia, I had no expectation what to see in Denmark.  This is also exactly the reason why I am here to explore.  Norway strikes me with the extreme beauty of their fjords country among everything else. Denmark impresses me with their high tech and modernity while magnificent and historical buildings and palaces are displaying their architectural beauty.

Contemporary facade

One thing I like the most is Danish design mind and Danish design style – functional with an edge. I sensed the fine design mind in every single thing that I have used, touched and encountered. Like most of the Europeans, they are practical and efficient and yet they seem so driven to make everything beautiful and pleasing to eyes.

Wherever I stopped, I saw designs of something. Not mentioning art hangings at the hotel rooms, contemporary decors are carried on throughout the whole reception area. There are large light pillars, colorful and beautiful lamp shades, lips stool back, wood blinds with 

contemporary paintings underneath and graphics on all the aluminum door panels along the lobby.

One design led me to the other and I was brought to the basement where I walked into a couch seating area that turns out to be women and men’s restrooms. Most of the restrooms require you to go in and out as quickly as you can, but this inviting environment actually made you wanting to stay. 

The seatings at the lobby are either hammock-like rattan loungers or the velvet benches with four corners secured by the drapery ropes which are fastened to the ceiling. Contemporary Resort mixed with classic Victorian.

contemporary and comfortable

Europe is packed with historical cathedrals, palaces, castles, and museums. After seeing 3-5 of them, they all start to look the same. I wish I had more chances to walk down the street and walk into local crowd to explore what I am more interested in, culture and people. Besides for a tour like this one, I had barely good photograph opportunities. 90% of the time I was taking snap shots through bus windows. My husband always made sure that I sat by the window, but there was not only dirty glass, there was glares and reflections. Bus was in motion and there were endless electric poles and traffic lights. Worse of all, perpetual people traffic. Sometimes I even stood up and shoot across the aisle, crazy enough. I am happy if I can get one decent shot out of 50-60 attempts.

Denmark has a total 5.4 million population, 1.4 million in Copenhagen metropolitan area. It has 443 islands and the highest sea level is only 500 ft. There are 22 miles of walking path and tons of bicycles. As far as I know, at Copenhagen city alone, there were about 800,000 people while there are 1.6 million bikes. Men ride bikes to work at the parliament and women ride bikes to shop in fashion district. Bicycle is almost the most popular transportation tool.

Parking lot inside the palace

China has long been thought to be the bicycle nation, but now I say, it is before I visit Denmark.  Car drivers are aggressive and they seem to challenge the daring pedestrians. Pedestrians’ right, in my opinion, is weak comparing to home. We had to walk fast through the zebra lines, otherwise, soon the light changed, car engines start to roar.  Pedestrians not only have to watch cars, they have to look out the bikers, too. We were told that the bicyclist could speed up to 60 miles per hour, and they have become one of the two biggest threats (and pick pockets) to pedestrians and tourists.

Government imposes 180% tax on cars. People tend to drive small cars like Italian Fiat or simply ride bicycles.  I was happy to see many American cars in the streets.  I also learned that US has a strong relationship with Denmark. President Clinton, George W Bush and Obama have been there. Among many statues in the streets, I was surprised to see President Roosevelt. Guess our friendship went back long ways.

In Norway, I saw dominating red on houses. In Denmark, this dominating color becomes terra cotta color. Almost all the roofs are tiles that remind me of Mediterranean styles except that the roofs are steeper purposely designed to ease snow loads. Other than a few large houses, most of them are smaller in size. If I want to find a word to describe it, I say, ‘cute’ and manicured.

Typical Danish house (no window glares)

Danish pastry is the first thing we tried while we were in transit at the airport.  It costs $4-5 each (the price we can buy half dozen at home), but it is worth it.  American calls it Danish; it is actually called ‘Vienna Bread’ here. It is a true pastry, fluffy and not very sweet. Size is also smaller.  I would call what we can buy at our grocery store Danish style bread because it is more like bread, butter heavy and very sweet.

Everything is bigger and serving volume is larger at home. Is it the vendor who push us consumers to eat more or is it us who want more and vendors are catering towards our needs?  We all want to be thinner, but we seem not to have controlled consuming habit, what we have is big weight-loss and 24-hour gym business. Our food is so inexpensive in comparison, and we may perceive ‘whatever I want’ as a form of freedom and food intake has become an uncontrollable desire?  When our gas price rise, we stay home more. If our food prices are higher, we will buy less and consume less.  Maybe this is what we need? I am envious watching slender people walking in the streets here....

A few facts may be interesting to you:

Danish is one of the original developers of popular SKYPE. The other two are from Estonia and Sweden. All three are from Baltic Sea region. The world’s largest ocean carrier company Maersk Line is initiated and headquartered in Copenhagen. I knew Maersk Line since I had my first job out of college, but I have never known they are from Denmark till this day. 

Same as Norway, Denmark has great social welfare program. Government offers one year maternity leave for pregnant women and it is guaranteed that women won’t lose their job due to pregnancy.  It is even better that this one-year break can be split between wife and husband.  Wife can take 6 month off and husband the other 6, how cool is that?  Scandinavia countries have large lands but there have not been enough working population to boost a even stronger economy. This explains why the maternity leave program is so tempting.

At the same time, drunk driving costs a whole month of salary plus three weeks of traffic school.

I was on the cruise in the last week of the trip. Internet access was expensive and not very accessible. This blog was planned for last Wednesday, but I have not been able to post it till today. I finally downloaded all my pictures. I hope to share more in the upcoming blogs. Just grab a few below to show the classic aspect of Denmark.

Amalienborg Place (Danish royal family winter palace)

Inside Trivoli Garden, world's oldest amusement park

Christiansborg Palace (Royal family's summer palace)

Carlsburg Art Museum

Norway - travel journal (1)

There was a reason that I put Scandinavia in my bucket list, I was not quite sure why till I am visually here.  I wish the weather is better and I am not shooting through tour bus window all the time. Completely unknown about this country, it has been an eye-opening experience getting to know this beautiful and sophisticated country.  

Norway has only 5 million people inhabited in this long and skinny land full of absolutely gorgeous fjords (a waterway), endless green field and meadows, story- book like houses, and mirror-like bluish green waters. Most of the farm houses are painted red with white trim. From distance, the dramatic color contrast among green, red, white, blue and other colors creates a picturesque landscape.

typical waterfront houses

In the cities, residential houses are mostly sitting on the hillside. Almost all houses have contrast coloration and barely two identical houses next to each other. The architecture of the regular houses and commercial buildings are both impressive. Old house and buildings are packed with fine details and characters. Newer buildings have also maintained their classic flare. From it’s architecture, we know there is significant history behind.

Upon our arrival, the first two meals are served inside the hotel. We had no idea about the food prices till we stepped outside the comfort zone and was shocked at the food prices. I would say, The prices paid for hole in the wall places can sit us in a upscale restaurant at home comfortably, with wine, appetizers and dessert.  One cup of coffee no refill is between $5-7/cup, hamburger is $17-22, with French Fries $27-30, bottle water $5-7, Danish $5 just to give some examples.

City buildings are manicured in Oslo

Northwest fresh salmon is great. I don’t want to say Norway has better fish, but the cooking method and spice used makes the same fish very tasty. I have to guess that they might use all organic vegetables because the taste is just like what I remembered in my childhood (when pesticide was not used).  It is not the stir fry that I am familiar, but it is so fresh and crunchy. I thought Chinese is the only one knows how to make vegetable crunchily tasty.

Breakfast place seems to all come with a mini bakery and at least half dozen varieties of bread are served in loaves. You cut your own, big or small, no waste. A big array of cheese selection is impressive and fish is served in all breakfast.  Coffee is good, but when we asked for decaffeinated coffee, we were handled over a jar of Nescafe. Also only regular tea is served, no herbal teas. Coffee cup is smaller, 8 oz is their regular size.  I have seen the mugs in the stores. They are all 8 oz.  This explains it why we have seen mostly tall blonds with slender figures.  Today is our 6^th day of the trip and I have not seen any overweight people, men or women.

Many women have long blond hair and fair skin, very little make-up.  And, almost all the teenage girls have nothing on their faces, pure and naturally beautiful. No nose rings or tattoos either. Clean, Orderly and Organized are what I witnessed around the cities.

Wood crafts, knitwear, furs and leather products are Norway’s signature products. Sales tax VAT is 25%.  One regular sweater with pattern costs about $500. Simple wood souvenir items start with $20-30 each if it is made in Norway.  From what I know, Income tax is average 30-35% and the higher bracket 40-60%. Everything is so expensive, how people make their living and are elected ‘the happiest people’ in the world?

Original Trading Houes 

We all know Norway has acquired tremendous wealth from their natural resources such as oil and they have one of the best social welfare system. Norwegians are hard-working people. Traditionally they are frugal and have very good saving habit.

Their minimum wage is about $35-40 per hour using waitress as an example. Teacher’s starting salary is about $90,000…. For such earning, high tax rate does not drain them down.  In fact, they only have 3.7% unemployment rate. Average income is $50,000, 80% of the people are house owners. 

Crime rate is low. It has something to do with their gun control law.  Nobody can own a gun without officially applying a license and going through regulated training.  Due to long winter and shortage of sunshine, people tend to become depressed. Drinking is therefore becoming a problem. Fine for drunk driving is one month salary plus three weeks of traffic school. I like their straight and no bull shit rules.

If I want to jump into a conclusion with my short period of observation, I think they have conservative and practical lifestyle, at the same time, they have advanced and utilized all modern technology to create an efficient and self-sufficient society for themselves.

beautiful roofline (Bergen)

Internet has not been going on steadily and our busy tour schedule does not give me enough time to download and go through the pictures taken each day. I hope to catch up soon and I want to share this trip the best I can upon my return.

Just like home (Oregon) except
more dramatic and picturesque